Stories & Essays: Field to Feast

As family farms increasingly give way to subdivisions, and their products to corporate factories, few farmers have held on to the old ways. The Flanagans are an exception. For four generations and nearly 75 years, they have farmed turkeys in Pungo, one of the last remaining rural parts of Virginia Beach.

Every year, on a single day before Thanksgiving, they hold a "turkey killing day," to process their flock for the holiday. The day's work is done by dozens of Roy and Jeannie Flanagan's friends, neighbors and family members who volunteer their time. In the tradition of an old-fashioned barn raising, it's a true community effort. "It warms your heart," said Jeannie Flanagan, "to think that people will still do this."

  
Jim Beltz dunks a turkey in the pot. He's been helping the Flanagans process their turkeys for over 20 years.
  
Jim Salmons, a neighboring farmer, helps clean turkeys while his son, Howard, 3, sits with him. "I think it's good for him to come up and learn," Salmons said.
     
  
Cal Schiemann pulls a turkey out of the pot. After the turkeys are killed, hot water helps the workers clean off the feathers.
  
Amanda McCann (left) and Cortney Doucette (center) help dress turkeys in the Flanagans' garage.
  
Horace Malbone watches his son work. The elder Malbone started helping the Flanagans on turkey killing day when he was a teenager. He said he's glad the Flanagans have maintained a traditional way of doing things. "Every generation loses something," he said. "It's eventually gonna die off."
     
  
Turkeys wait to be fed at the Flanagan Farm in Virginia Beach, Va. One hundred and eighty five turkeys were killed, processed and sold on the Monday before Thanksgiving.
  
Fletcher Flanagan, 6, helps his father pluck turkey feathers. His father, Roy Flanagan, is a fourth generation turkey farmer.
  
Russell Malbone lines up a plucked bird ready to be dressed.
     
  
Christian McNulty, 11, a friend of the Flanagan boys, pulls a finished turkey to the garage where it will be bought by someone on the Flanagans' waiting list. People lucky enough to have one of the turkeys reserved come by to pick it up the same day it's slaughtered.